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Day 1

Today did not start off the way we thought it would. Rather than being concerned about the water quality in Belize, we found that Houston was the problem. The entire Hobby airport was out of water. Apparently their main pump had malfunctioned. For us, this meant that no toilets were flushing, no water fountains working, and no food being served. All of us immediately felt the pangs of hanger. This has become the first bonding experience of the trip.

Belize itself is lovely. I have only been in the country for a handful of hours, but I have enjoyed it so far. Though I have been low-grade sweating for hours, I won’t let my hatred of humidity bring this trip down for me.

After arriving at the airport and making the long van ride to the Crystal Paradise (stopping of course for food!) we finally got to sit down to great meal. After eating everything in sight, we settled down for presentations. Or so we thought. The projector did not work at all. After trying about six different laptops, we gave up.

I gave my presentation with multiple copies going on about three laptops. Today, I also got my first look at the epiphytes of Belize. I don’t think that I could really tell what they were as we were driving quickly down the roads. I can’t wait to go to Caracol tomorrow, hopefully to see more epiphytes!

One last thing. I saw the most amazing trail of leaf cutter ants walking across the hotel grounds. Stephanie, Anna and I followed them to the hole entrance into their nest. After that, we went and followed the trail a long way back, to the tree from which they were actually getting the leaf cuttings. It was one of the most amazingly organized things I had ever seen. What’s more, they had very distinct trails (just like human hiking trails) going across the entire grounds. I can’t tell you how much this interested me. A truly unique experience.

 

Smile for the Camera

Today’s task seemed simple: form a hypothesis and set up 12 camera traps in the forest surrounding LCRS. 

Twelve hours later, our work is finally complete, but it was much easier said than done. After a 5:30am birdwatching session and a hot cup of tea, we set off to develop our experiment. We opted to test the impact of human pathways on local species richness and composition in the Chiquibul by setting up camera traps along roads and trails, as well as in natural clearings. In five days, we’ll collect these traps and see what diverse organisms they’ve managed to catch on film.

The morning’s hike seemed manageable on a map, but many hours and some (incredible) scarlet macaw sightings later, we had set up only half of our traps. By our 3pm lunch break, I had walked 7.8 miles or 16, 652 steps. Talk about a morning workout. 

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View from Bird Tower near LCRS.

Right before lunch, we ended our work at the Las Cuevas Bird Tower. The rickety tower stands at over 600 m of elevation, and the view is almost worth the steep hike up. (Note to entrepreneurs: the Bird Tower would be an ideal location for opening an ice cream stand).

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Sumichrast’s skink (Eumeces sumichrasti).

Despite sweat and blisters, we loaded up on lunch and set off on the Monkey Tail Trail to install the remaining traps in clearings and a natural stream. The main reptile for today was the Sumichrast’s skink (Eumeces sumichrasti), an orange and black lizard with a bright blue tail. I saw evolution in action when we caught a blue-tailed skink; the lizard quickly shed its skin and darted off, leaving the wriggling blue tail in our palms (and the rest of the animal out of sight). 

With our twelfth and final camera trap set in a mud wallow for a prospective tapir sighting, we finally trudged our way home. Though we were all exhausted and covered in sweat (and ticks, in some cases), I found some  peace in the pitch black of the forest. The trees of the canopy arched over the trail to form a tunnel, just like the trees at home on University Boulevard. And just as the blinking lights of the city lead me home at Rice, the twinkling eyes of spiders lit up the trail with pinpricks of yellow light, finally leading us back to Las Cuevas.

Day 3: Camera traps and hiking

Today was our first day in the field. The project of the day was to set up 12 camera traps around Las Cuevas that will record information about the animals that are active in the area. The traps will take pictures of animals for 5 days, until our last day at LCRS. This information will allow us to make inferences about the number of species in the area and where they are most likely to be found. We’re hoping that we placed the traps in such a way so they’ll capture lots of small animals and maybe some big cats, like jaguars or ocelots.

One of the best parts of the day today was seeing a group of scarlet macaws fly right by where we were. Scarlet macaws are really rare in Belize, and are threatened by poachers that take them from their nests. Hopefully increased awareness about the problem will help to decrease poaching. Tourists should avoid taking pictures with macaws that aren’t in zoos or otherwise obtained legally in order to decrease demand for macaws.

We also saw a lot of tree species along the paths today including bastard mahogany, cedar, cecropia, fiddlewood, gumbo-limbo, give-and-take palm, mahogany, chicle, and strangling fig. Some of the chicle trees were extremely tall, and it was interesting to see the marks from the chicleros go up the tree as far as we could see.

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Give-and-take palm – note the sharp spines!
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All of the mahogany was small due to logging in the past
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Chicle tree featuring scars from chicleros and Randy for scale

Over the course of the day we walked almost 14 miles (and in rainboots no less!) so it’s safe to say I’ll sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we’re going to learn a lot about ants. Turns out they have a pretty advanced societal structure!

Day 3: A Lesson from Nature

Cockroaches come in all different shapes, colors, and abilities, but they usually have a similar body plan that renders them distinguishable from other types of insects. Usually, cockroaches are dull colored, ranging from light brown to black. This probably assists them with camouflaging in the leaf litter, where most of them can be found. However on a few occasions you will find a roach with such a beautiful coloration that many would believe it to be something else. One roach photographed that neither Scott nor I had seen before was found relaxing on a moss covered rock.

It was colored a combination of red, yellow, and black stripes all along the pronotum and abdomen and possibly the most beautiful cockroach as of today. In excitement I attempted to capture the creature in my handy tupper ware container, only to see the creature squeeze through the grip of my hands and fly back into the leaf litter. I was frustrated of course, but later realized that I don’t need to capture these cockroaches in order to document their appearance to some extant. That was a lesson I made sure to not forget during this week at Las Cuevas. However, I wasn’t sure when I would be given another opportunity to find another specimen of the same species.

Luckily, during a short segment of a difficult hike, Dr. Correa found the same species and called for me, the so-called “roach expert.” And just like that, after a few photographs, I managed to capture an image of this awesome specimen. I’m not sure if this type of tropical roach is described anywhere in Belize, or even Central American roach databases! But more research will be needed to verify that. For now, enjoy the picture at the bottom! [I later found it that this roach is a wasp-mimicking cockroach of the genus Pseudophyllodromia].

Besides a few other roach specimens, today was very tiring! We walked about 13.5 miles of uneven terrain, a personal record for me, all to set up camera traps for one of our projects. However at each place, I was starting to have a surreal feeling of living the tropical field biologist life! While the hard science of the course is getting to my head, and my legs, the opportunity to contribute to the growing knowledge of Belize’s forest as well as the chance to observe stunning habitats overshadows the inconvenience of tiredness! Here’s to another lesson filled day tomorrow!

Not all roaches are dull! Some are fabulous
Not all roaches are dull! Some are fabulous. UPDATE (May 29): After some online research, I’ve learned that this roach is of the genus Pseudophyllodromia, a type of wasp-mimicking cockroach! I don’t really see the wasp resemblance but perhaps I should contact at true roach expert!

I am become sweat, destroyer of pants.

Another early morning. Five am birdwatching was fun to listen to as I was dreaming, and I woke up briefly when Adrienne screamed, shocked to find her son’s toy pupa in the secret compartment of her coffee thermos. It’s hard to explain what makes some of the funnier things from this trip so funny. Maybe its the delirium setting in but hey, a good time is a good time. I guess you would have to be here.

You also have to be here to see the Scarlett Macaw (segue!!) which we did after breakfast this morning. I can’t say exactly where we saw them, because revealing their locations to poachers who prowl the internet could endanger the safety of the small population that lives in Belize. I can’t even post images of them. Needless to say, their amazing creatures. Look them up.

Before long, our day of ardor had begun. We set twelve camera traps in multiple areas and along corridors, both manmade and natural, to compare the impact of humans on species richness and community composition. The hike totaled thirteen miles by the end of the day. Two pairs of boxer-briefs and twelve hours later, we finished. Along the way I spotted this little fella.

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Taenipoda eques, the Horse Lubber Grasshopper. This one’s a nymph, so no wings yet. These get pretty big though, commonly over four or five inches long. They are poisonous as well, like yesterday’s Abel’s Katydid, the yellow markings tell predators to avoid this morsel. When they are threatened they also release a noxious liquid foam that deters any truly committed attacker. I also can do this when it’s hot out.

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Also included is a picture of a Leaf Mimic Katydid. Family: Tettiigoniidae. She looks like a dead leaf! Wow!

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P.S. The title is because my pants are destroyed with sweat— somehow that has to do with Oppenheimer creating the atom bomb. Like I said the delirium is setting in and I think it’s time for bed.

 

Day 3: Feel the Burn

13.47 miles of hiking=over 30,000 steps= I am so sore

I have never more strongly felt the effect of not working out enough. Today was a hiking day. Our mission was to set up camera traps to try and measure species richness and composition in natural and man-made open areas of the Chiquibul forest. It sounded so simple. We planned out approximate locations for the cameras and were quickly aware we would have to scale down the distances between some of the cameras. It would have simply been too much ground to cover in a day. Armed with a planned route [AND A BUTTERFLY NET!!!] we started on the first part of the trail hoping to get the hard hiking done before lunch.

Our first time in the forest. Overwhelming. Distracting. Amazing. There were many new sights. We saw Encyclia cochleata(Belize’s national flower), Chicle trees with the scars of former harvests, and so many epiphytes. And oh, the butterflies. There were seven sightings of blue morpho butterflies. I hadn’t realized how big they are. I also several swallowtail I didn’t recognize(one was a Thaos Swallowtail, I think). After climbing the hill to the bird tower- mostly an ascent- I saw a heloconius butterfly. Finishing up the hike I managed to catch a butterfly for the first time- a yellow and orange butterfly.

After lunch putting the rubber rain boots back on was a challenge. Feet were already sore and we had miles left to hike. Luckily this one was mostly flat. We almost managed to set all the traps before sunset and hiked the rest of the way back with our headlamps. I have never seen so much eye shine peeking out from leaves. It was an amazing, tiring day.

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Day 2: Misunderstood Sadness and Joy

I managed to snap quite a few photos of different cockroaches throughout today. For example, the roach that was spotted with Dr. Correa also appeared at my lodging during morning packing. The cockroach was near death, save for the occasional twitch of antennae and legs. It’s interesting seeing this creature’s presence around human settlements. In spite of all the fuss on roach pests, only a small percentage of the 4400 cockroach species of the world are household nuisances. The roach I encountered had a dark body with a front segment (pronotum) containing a large black dot. Another cool thing, its underside is reddish brown and its legs were spiky, giving a similar appearance to the underside of the American cockroach (Periplanta americanus) rather than a Blaberus species. Another dead roach was also found in our room, but it was quite mutilated. And the roach was wingless, either indicating a wingless species or a juvenile. In any case, identification for juveniles is difficult if not impossible since they all look the same.

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Another cockroach sighting was at the Caracol Ruins, the sight of an ancient Mayan metropolis and home to the largest manmade structure at Belize. This roach was a golden color and quite small. I estimate it to be no more than one inch, including the antennae of the insect. The insect was found in the leaf litter near the Sky Palace of the archeological site and was quickly scurrying away from us, hiding beneath the leaves. I managed to wrap my hand around it, but was surprised to see it take flight for a short distance back into the leaf litter. The flight distance wasn’t very far, indicating that these roaches don’t seem to be particularly strong flyers and only use it as a last resort escape. Based on what I know, I’m guessing this roach is of the genus Cariblatta, due to the small yellow color.

As for another round of good news, I managed to capture a small cockroach with a body length about one inch, and antennae about half an inch long on Scott’s towel at Las Cuevas! The cockroach is golden brown in appearance and has no black dot on its pronotum. Rather it’s entire pronotum is black and smooth. This is a completely different and unknown species to me, and I’m excited to photograph and describe it, as summary of Belize’s common cockroach species is very lacking!

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In my excitement, I tried to upload these pictures, but thought I had deleted them accidentally. That made me sad throughout the day as it thought I had lost so much progress. But technology surprised me, by bringing it up again in my computer!

As a final treat, while photographing near the lights at the Las Cuevas, I managed to photograph a Cuban Green Cockroach (Panchlora nivea), as well as unintentionally capturing an unknown roach that from a distance looked like a beetle.

The green roach is a female P. nivea, while the brown/red roach is unknown
The green roach (bottom) is a female P. nivea, while the brown/red roach is unknown

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Another interesting knowledge filled day has passed, from learning of Mayan history at Belize, to trying an exotic fruit (Phylodendron), to our van breaking down, and our improvised lecture session. Can’t wait to see what our first full day at the Las Cuevas will hold!

Insect Celeb Sighting

Our first night as a group completed without much ado, save for a technological issue with our projector, I awoke at five this morning surprisingly willingly. I had no bug bites or aches and pains despite the fact that I slept in a hammock outside our room all night.

Screens protected me from physically encountering any insects in my sleep, but did nothing to silence the industrial noise coming from the loudest of these bugs, the cicada. They were my alarm this morning; and they worked better than any alarm did all semester at Rice.

No snooze button available. Nature: 1, Technology: 0.

We spent the first half of our day at the Caracol archaeological site, where I was equally or more fascinated by the spectacular flora and fauna as I was by the impressive Mayan ruins. The highlight of my day was finding a remarkably beautiful specimen from my taxonomic group, Orthoptera: Abel’s Katydid (also known as the Crayola Katydid because of its vibrant blue, orange, and green coloration). It’s a male, as you can tell from its lack of large, sword-like ovipositor. Its also missing a leg because I was rough with it—sorry lil’ guy.

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This species is aposematically colored, meaning its gaudy appearance is a warning sign to predators that says “DON’T EAT ME! I’M NOT GOOD TO EAT!” In the case of this species bright coloration is an honest signal of its unpleasant, and toxic, taste. Interestingly, other species have learned about this trick and mimic the colors of some toxic animals in order to garner the same benefits as the actually honest creatures (clever!)

When researching Orthoptera pre-departure I distinctly remember that this species really stood out among the dozens of “run-of-the-mill” insects with normal old green or brown/black coloration (how boring). Seeing this gorgeously appointed masterpiece of evolution, I was star-struck. On top of that, it was the first and only opportunity I had to show off my orthopteran expertise to the group so far—what beginner’s luck!

P.S. I also included the image of another Orthoptera I saw today! (A grasshopper nymph)

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Day 2: Pickup Truck Adventures!

This morning we headed to Caracol, a Mayan civilization that flourished from 300 BC to 1100 AD.  The metropolis itself housed over 150,00 people, which is over half the population of the entire country today.  We climbed to the top of the highest pyramid, the tallest structure in all of Belize.  The view from the pyramid was amazing, and we could see for miles in every direction.  To the West, the mountains in the distance were brown instead of green.  This was the Belize-Guatemala border.  The Guatemalan population is many times that of Belize, and they have much higher rates of deforestation as they stretch their limited resources.

 

Although we didn’t see any termites today, we did see several termite nests.  On our way to Caracol we drove past an arboreal nest, but weren’t able to identify it.  A few of the beams in the pyramid were from 70 AD.  They were impressively intact for being 2,000 years old, but they did have termite tunnels burrowing through them.  As we were leaving the station, we found an abandoned carton nest that had fallen from a tree.  It was cracked open, so we could look at the tunnels within.  We didn’t see the termites living inside, but Microcerotermes crassus do make arboreal tree nests, so this could be one of their nests.

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As we were heading back from Caracol, our transmission started struggling and making strange noises.  Luckily, we were close to a Belizian army camp, and we pulled in there.  When they checked the engine, the transmission fluid was completely dry.  We couldn’t drive the van anymore, so we piled into pickup trucks.  On the way, we saw a tree full of oropendola nests and a group of toucans! Las Cuevas Research Station is beautiful.  All of the buildings are on stilts, so you are eye-level with the trees and can see lots of wildlife.  I can’t wait to see more of the station and the surrounding forest! I can already tell these two weeks are going to fly by. DSCN4008

A Visit to the Maya (by Maya)

Though we’ve finally settled in the heart of the Chiquibul Forest, I may have been too hasty in my previous assessment of our luck on this trip.

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Silky anole (Anolis sericeus).

The morning began with little sleep, some unidentifiable (but delicious) fried bread, a blue-crowned motmot sighting, and our departure from the Crystal Paradise and San Ignacio. Just as we set off, I caught this silky anole (Anolis sericeus).

Our first stop was a step 2000 years back in history, to the ancient Mayan city of Ozhuitza at the Caracol Archaeological Site. The great city now stands in ruins, with only the largest structures of the ancient city center excavated today. I became a momentary archaeologist, traipsing through the remains of a metropolis that once housed 150,000 people. We climbed 43 meters with many, many steps to the top of Caracol’s “Sky Palace,” the tallest structure in Belize.

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Caracol Archaeological Site.

The day’s reptile sightings remained sparse compared to yesterday’s excitement; Caracol only yielded a few stray skinks, darting among the ruins. The morning’s greatest surprise was the sight of the odd hanging nests characteristic of the Montezuma’s oropendola. As we entered what can best be described as the suburbs of Ozhuitza, I caught a glimpse of the birds’ bright yellow tails. We watched the intricately woven nests swing like pendulums in the breeze to the tune of the oropendula’s strange mating call.

However, as soon as we left Caracol, the Mayan gods appear to have left our side. Our journey to the Chiquibul was cut short by an unanticipated lack of oil. In true field biologist fashion, we halted our journey outside a military checkpoint and seated ourselves on the dirt road for a lecture on the termite species of Belize. But in just a few short hours, two pickup trucks with a bed full of TFBs finally found their way to Las Cuevas Research Station. For the next five days, we’ll make our home here in the forest—hopefully, with a little more luck this time.