Tag Archives: ATM cave

Day 8: ATM Caving

The ATM cave was literally one of the coolest things I’ve ever done! It will be difficult to even describe what we just did since it was so unique and we couldn’t take any pictures, but seriously, if any future TFBs are reading this post, this travel day absolutely will not disappoint.

The entrance to the cave looks like a mermaid’s lagoon-just this beautiful stone arch shrouded in the natural flora of Belize with crystal waters gushing out of the inner cave. When we entered, I could hardly believe my eyes it was so magical. The cave ceiling was so high and the conditions inside the cave were so pleasant it barely felt real. As we traversed deeper into the cave, my fascination only continued to grow. We made our way though narrow passages and natural springs of water while learning about the ancient Maya people and their beliefs surrounding the cave. I 100% understand why they would have thought this cave had some deep connection to spirituality and specifically the underworld, especially knowing that all of their rituals in the cave involved some form of drugs and alcohol.

When we got to the largest room in the cave, our guide explained what researchers believed about the Maya remains we could observe. All of the pottery they left behind had serious meaning and I saw the reflections on the cave walls that they believed to be their gods. If all of this were not already crazy enough, seeing the full human skeleton in the cave certainly pushed the experience over the edge. At the time when the Maya were using the ATM cave, they were living through a mini ice-age when there was no rain for their crops. So, they started making human sacrificed to appease their gods out of desperation. They first started with adult sacrifices, then teenagers, then children, and finally infants when nothing worked. It was very grounding to learn about what lengths people will go to in times of absolute despair.

When we made our way out of the cave, we had to pass through some extremely narrow, tight spots, which honestly made me a bit nervous at times. Even though I knew that I was safe the entire time, sliding down some of the rocks and squeezing through those spaces was unsettling. It made a lot of sense to me why only a few Maya would enter the cave at a time. Besides it being a sacred ritual that only a few were aloud to partake in, it would be extremely stressful to go through that cave with no modern safety measures and a village including young children and elderly.

Tonight we made it to the Belize Zoo and got a personal tour after sunset. It was really awesome to see jaguars, puma, margay, and a Belizean porcupine up close. I’ve seen a few cockroaches around the premises including one green cockroach (panchlora nivea) flying around a source of light and two oriental cockroaches in the shower. I also may have seen a smoky-brown cockroach scurrying around near the bathroom sink.

-Emily

Belize Day 8: Traveling with Ecologists

Life finds a way, even deep into the pitch-black, flooded cave of Actun Tunichil Muknal. This cave system is the most magnificent place to exist, with arena-sized chambers full of stalactites, glimmering formations, and Maya remains. We saw intact skeletons, smashed vases, and shiny rock (polished by tourists’ butts as they climbed down). Most surprisingly, there were little seedlings sprouting from bat droppings and growing from the rock dust lining the surfaces above water level. Though they soon perish without light to photosynthesize, they were a gorgeous contrast to the black, white, and red cave (this cave was lined with speckled red walls because of its high iron content). 

We also spotted a few dark black cave spiders, pale white cave catfish, and bats in their bellhole homes. These guys were better equipped to survive the darkness, with vision as we know it replaced with adaptations like echolocation and sensitivity to vibrations. 

But the cave also showed evidence of what once existed–Maya sacrificial pots and skeletons dotted the ground, helping us to piece together their cultural practices and societal conditions. It seems that as a major prolonged drought progressed, Maya offerings became more severe, progressing from young adults to children to babies, potentially showing their desperation as they offered purer and purer gifts. Also, many of the skeletons we saw were modified to show prestige, with compressed skulls that resembled heads of corn (and the god of corn and crops, One Hunahpu) and filed teeth with patterned crevices. It was even proposed that one skeleton was a hostage due to its position with its arms tied behind its back.

Even though the remains only reveal a skeleton of what once was, our archeologist tour guide brought the scene to life. I could vividly imagine Mayan people starting a bonfire in the cave, illuminating the silhouette of a god (from the shadow of a stalactite crystal), and praying for water. 

Fast forward 5 hours, we were in the darkness of nighttime, strolling through Belize’s lush, natural animal rescue zoo and being mowed down by wild green iguanas. We had just talked with this adorable river otter, offering it chicken as it squealed with delight, when we encountered a green lizard stuck on an electric fence with a bitten-off tail. To move it out of the way of the current, we poked it with a stick. In a frenzy, it flew off the fence and charged at Ian. When it realized it couldn’t get through him, it darted in the other direction into Sam. A good 30 seconds later, it started pouring outside. We got a good laugh, and the rain finally brought out the frogs for Elise (our expert), hoping along the tree-based epiphytes, like the common and gorgeous Philodendron sagittifolium. However, the tapir was not having it. We were lucky to say hi and feed it a few carrots, but it trotted off when the sprinkle turned into a pitter-patter. 

(Poor Green Iguana – 05/23/25)

(Philodendron sagittifolium – 05/23/25)

Tonight I encountered so many new animals, like margaye (house cat-sized felines that were originally bred to interbreed with cats for their gorgeous coats), tapir (mammals known for their mini elephant trunk noses), and porcupines with prehensile tails (Mexican Hairy Dwarf Porcupine). I also discovered my new favorite mammal: the paca, the most adorable rodent I’ve laid eyes on, known as the “Royal rat,” because it was served to Queen Elizabeth II when she visited Belize. Also, American crocodiles can go a month without eating. The zoo only feeds them once a month because they digest so slowly. 

(Adorable Paca – 05/23/25)

This zoo originated as an effort to rescue 20 mammals and turned into an animal rescue center and educational hotspot. The 160 individuals there were all saved from harsh or cruel circumstances, like as neglected pets, and were all natives of Belize.

On this trip, every minute is a learning experience. From exploring underground ecosystems to learning about Central American mammals, my understanding of ecosystem complexity and what goes on past the surface is growing, kind of like a leaf-cutter ant mound. I told Dr. Solomon that, from now on, I want to travel with an ecologist to keep doing the whole learning/vacationing thing. But even better, I will be that ecologist. For now, I’m excited to learn about the reef ecosystem and share my expertise about the sponge taxa.

(Wisdom from the Zoo – 05/23/25)

Peace,

Lily 🙂

5/23: Sacrifices and Speckled Owls

Today was my favorite day so far!! I thought it would be on the more boring side, since it is a lot of traveling, but OMG. First off all the bus ride is so beautiful and peaceful despite all the bums. I could stay on it forever just listening to music and imagining I’m in a music video. When we arrived at our destination, the ATM caves, I didn’t know what to expect, but it turned out to be the most amazing experience ever! we spent over three hours exploring a HUGE Maya cave. There were parts so deep that we had to swim through and parts so tight that we had to climb and squeeze through a small hole one by one. We learned about the natural processes that created the cave formations from limestone and saw several bats and their homes. Most exciting, we saw several human bones, including skulls! These skeletons are thought to be remains from human sacrifices made to the gods for rain and abundance. We also saw the pots and “fireplaces” they had and learned how they use them in ceremonies. Its crazy to think how different their lives were from anything we can possibly imagine.

After the caves, we went to the education center to stay the night. We got a night time tour of the zoo and got to see so many iconic animals of the belize forests, including jaguars, tapirs, and kinkajous.  We saw a wild iguana with its tail bitten off and it jumped and ran after us! My favorite animal that we saw was hoodwink, a speckled owl. we was bred and kept in captivity until a few years ago when a hurricane hit and he escaped. Missing his pampered lifestyle, he returned 4 months later, but with a girlfriend. Now the girlfriend visits him every mating season, even though they can never be together because he is domesticated in a cage and she is wild. So cute. Tomorrow we leave for Glover’s reef! I can’t wait!

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Day 8: ATM Cave and Belize Zoo!

This morning, we finished packing up and left Las Cuevas to begin the second half of our trip. It was a very bittersweet goodbye, as on one hand I’m super excited to go to the reef, but on the other I really wish we could stay here longer. But as they say, all good things must come to an end.

As we were rocking back and forth on the uneven gravel road, I began thinking about the rainforest part of the trip as a whole, and what LCRS has done for me. I’ve really come to love this place and it’s helped me fall back in love with forests, hiking, and camping.

We visited the Actun Tunichil Muknal cave, which was an insane adventure. The first portion of the cave is a wet cave, so we had to swim and wade through water and climb over and under a ton of rocks. It felt a lot like the river travel we did on our DT trips.

The dry portion of the cave was filled with ancient Maya artifacts, including pots, fireplaces, and even human skulls and remains. Sadly, they also had a no cameras policy.

After the cave, we reached our lodge for the night (Tropical Education Center), and got a special night tour of the zoo!

We got to see jaguars, pumas, tapirs, and more.

There was even a wild iguana with its tail bitten off. It charged right at me and ran through my legs before it hit both Claire C. and Sam.

The highlight of the visit was being able to feed the tapirs. We gave them carrots and even petted them on the head.

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Tomorrow we’ll be leaving TEC and heading out to Glover’s Reef. Stoked about the 3 hour boat ride!

Ian C

Sayonara, Las Cuevas!

Hey y’all!

We parted with the beautiful Chiquibul Forest yesterday morning, driving back over the Macal River and through the Mountain Pine Ridge. Though this is Cinnamon Tarantula territory, we sadly did not see any because they are nocturnal and we did not have time to stop and look for their dens.

After passing over the Roaring River–which was more like Snoring River since it is still dry season–we arrived at the ATM (Actun Tunichil Muknal) Cave at 10:14 am. We walked to the cave itself and then swam, waded, and climbed for about 4 hours through sparkling cave formations as our tour guide talked about the archaeological findings of the ancient Maya. We were not allowed to take pictures due to preservation concerns, so I’m sorry I can’t show you what it was like.

I also spotted a spider on one ledge with really longs legs, which makes sense because cave animals have longer legs and arms to help explore caves. I don’t know what this guy was, but I’ll work on IDing him.

After a lovely lunch, we drove to the Tropical Education Center, arriving by 5:30 pm. After dinner, we visited the Belize Zoo, a zoo that only houses local, rescue animals. Some of my favorites that we saw were Edgar Hill the jaguar, Princess the puma, and Fozzie the kinkajou.

I also spotted a tarantula in its den underneath the sidewalk! I’m working on identifying what kind of tarantula it is. I guess you really can’t take a step without finding another spider, above or below ground!

Day 8: Indiana Jones style adventures

Today was an absolutely insane day. It started by leaving Las Cuevas (still sad about that part). We drove for about 2 hours until we got to Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave (or ATM Cave). I had been previously warned that this would be an adventure like no other, but even with all the hype surrounding today, the cave caught me by surprise.

(ATM entrance)

We swam into the cave’s wide open mouth and walked/swam through the cave for about an hour. In the water section of the cave, we saw incredible stalactites and stalagmites, bats roosting together, cave catfish, cave crickets, and cave spiders.

After about an hour of trekking through the watery cave system, we climbed up into a dry chamber. This cave system was used by the Mayas as a sacred ground for praying to gods of rain, corn, and the underworld. This specific cave was used as a location of often human sacrifice during the draught that wiped out their agriculture between 800 and 1000 AD. We saw calcified skeletons, broken and not broken pots and dishes, and fire pits used to light the cavern.

After we trekked back out of the cave and walked back to the van, I saw yet another basilisk lizard!!!!!! It was much larger but the same species as the one I caught yesterday (striped basilisk). I also saw two 7 ish inch long rose bellied lizards on the side of the trail which were incredibly fast after sitting in the sunlight. I did not get a great look at any of these lizards, but they were still cool.

Tonight, we went on a night tour of the Belize Zoo. We saw their rescued jaguars, ocelots, puma, margays, tapirs, paca, and crocodile. The jaguars were majestic so were super cool to watch.

(Jaguar!)

We did have one incident with an iguana however. It was a wild iguana that was resting too close to one of the electric fences, so our guide poked it to make it move. Instead of making it move a little however, this iguana SPRINTED away from us and then SPRINTED back right at us. My life flashed before my eyes. I do not know what this iguana could have done to me, but this iguana was so intense with its run. The iguana ran right into my leg and over my feet as well as right into two of my peers feet.

(demonic iguana)

Today was incredible and I want to do it again as soon as possible. But… TOMORROW IS TIME FOR REEF BIOLOGY! See you then!

Claire C

Goodbye Las Cuevas!

May 21st, 2019

The last morning at Las Cuevas!!! It’s gone by so fast and the last session of bird watching did not disappoint. Four grey foxes appeared out of the clearing, what appeared to be two adults with their kits. The kits were chasing each other and ran down the trail with one parent romping after them. The other parent tried to ignore them and then yawned, as if sighing, and walked over to find the kits. Two toucans flew into view and we spotted them with a bird scope, as well as a large parrot.

My last glimpse of the resident kite

We then said goodbye to Las Cuevas and were off to ATM Cave, Actun Tunichil Muknal, to traverse into the cave to look at Mayan artifacts and human sacrificial remains. Our journey started with a 35 minute hike out from a parking area, traversing three river crossings until reaching an area before the cave entrance. Armed with headlamps and helmets we swam into the cave and climbed up some rocks to begin our journey. The cave has a stream running through it, with constant standing water. Our guide pointed out some crystal formations (don’t touch them!) which made me wide eyed with amazement at the size of them. We continued farther into the cave until we saw two small mammals, two fruit bats. The bats were in a crevice of the cave, hanging upside down sleeping. These fruit bats are quite large and only come out at night to feed on different fruits. Further on into the cave, we climbed up a boulder to reach the central dry chamber, where they Maya conducted rituals.

 

The chamber was littered with different clay pots, some completely smashed and some with only a small hole poked into them. Our guide explained that it was to release the spirit held inside the object. We saw skulls of those that had been sacrificed and the grand finale. What people dub as the “Crystal Maiden” (it’s actually the remains of boy). It is a mostly intact skeleton of a boy who was brought in the cave possibly after death.

 

After leaving the cave we went to the Tropical Education Center, where we are staying for tonight, which is right near the Belize Zoo. We were fortunate enough to get a night tour of the zoo and saw so many cool animals. First, we saw a Tapir, the largest terrestrial animal in Central and South America. These mammals can get up to 600 pounds and prefer riverine forests, luckily, they are herbivores. We fed it carrots and watched as its mobile nose moved around. We then saw an Ocelot, the third largest cat in central America. They can grow to 35 inches in length and are carnivorous, feeding on wide range of prey such as iguanas and rodents. They can hunt on the ground and climb trees, and have superb eyesight and hearing. It had tan fur and a spotted pattern along its body. Next, we saw a Puma, the 2nd largest big cat in Central America, it was a spectacular animal. I have never said this about cats but it was beautiful. It had a brown coat and eyes, and was focused on the food that our guide had. The Puma is known as a cougar, mountain lion, and panther around the world. They can reach a little more than 5 feet in length and can be around 140 pounds. Nearly all cougars in the Midwestern and Eastern United States were eliminated by farmers and hunters around the beginning off the 1900s. Fear not for their extinction though! Since the rebound of the white-tail deer population though, puma populations have started to rebound and they are moving back into their normal ranges. Moving on, we saw the small Margay. Margay look similar to ocelots but are much smaller, around house cat size. They are very adept at navigating the canopy, their ankles allowing them to turn their feet 180 degrees outward. They also can climb headfirst down vertical tree trunks.

Still itchy

The tropical rainforest and coral reef are similar in that they both survive on very nutrient-poor soil and ocean water respectively. This is because there’s very rapid nutrient cycling in the leaf litter of the rainforest and the mangroves near coral reefs.

I also noticed a lot of interesting interactions between species in these environments outside of simple predation. In the rainforest, there were organisms like ticks (which surprisingly don’t bother me anymore) that act as parasites and the Azteca ants that live symbiotically in Cecropia trees. And in the coral reefs, there were organisms like Christmas tree worms that extend deep inside the corals and stay there for life and clownfish that live symbiotically in anemones.

It’s hard to remember what I expected from the course after I already experienced it, but I guess that’s why we wrote our pre-departure blogs. In mine, I wrote that I was “anticipating a fascinating (but incredibly busy) two weeks.” I’d say this was pretty accurate to the trip, except it was even more fascinating and busy than I imagined.

One thing I certainly didn’t anticipate was our incredible experience at the ATM cave, which was most definitely my favorite part. I had no idea tourists were allowed to cave like that (i.e. swimming through small spaces and even scaling a small wall at one point). My least favorite part was probably running through the Mangroves of Death on our first day at the reef. The amount of mosquitoes there is unbelievable, and I was pretty impressed when three other students volunteered to go there for our marine debris collection.

One thing that I learned that I won’t forget is the Mayan history that we heard about. I was fascinated by the elaborate rituals performed by the priests. Another thing is that the only way to kill a tick is to sever its head from the rest of its body (which you can use your fingernails to do). The third thing that I learned and won’t be forgetting is to avoid fire coral!

Rainforest species seen: Homaeotarsus pallipes, Enema endymion, Pyrophorus noctilucus, Euchroma gigantea, Calopteron discrepans, Hegemona lineata, Eburia pedestris

Reef species seen: Millepora alcicornis, Millepora complanate, Millepora squarrosa, Kirchenpaueria halecioides, Dentitheca dendritica, Cassiopeia xamachana, Aurelia aurita

Day 8: Beyonce: “Okay ladies, let’s look at formations”

Today’s general agenda: leave Las Cuevas —> ATM Cave —> tropical education center —> Belize Zoo 

I am very tempted to use words like “amazing”, “incredible”, “jaw-dropping” to describe my experience today, but I think I should unpack my thoughts to give you a sense of why I am feeling exactly that way. Specifically, I am referring to our expedition into the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave. 

As our pitstop between the rainforest and coral reef, we visited the ATM cave. Even before getting to the entrance of the cave, we had to cross three rivers. Certain parts of the cave required us wading in the shoulder-deep water and some climbing up tall, complex structures. 

I remember I audibly gasped as I looked at the cave formations all around me. When light is shone on these formations, they look like thousands of crystals all glistening back at you. At one point, I even lost a sense of where I was because I was merely taken aback by the view.

As we venture deeper into the cave, we got a better understanding of how caves play a role in Mayan culture. Historically, priests of mayan societies were in the caves performing rituals. Since we were the last group to explore the cave that day, we were able to switch off our lights and just listen to the cave. There was absolutely no light, so my eyes could not adjust to anything. We switched our lights back on, and one of us went missing! I’m just kidding- everyone got out of the cave unscathed. And the craziest thing of it all? Turns out, we only explored about 500m of the 5.3km cave.

Unfortunately, we were not able to document anything with cameras, so hopefully you have been well convinced to go explore the cave yourself. 

lunch at 2:40pm after a 3 hour cave expedition
night zoo with a boa constrictor

Brendan Wong

Belmopan, Belize

5/21/2019

The Experience of A Lifetime

May 21, 2019

Today, we went caving! I’m not talking just walking through a teeny cave with the convenience of manmade steps and installed lights. At points, we were swimming neck deep in water or trapped between two narrow cave walls not more than a few feet apart. We even had to slide down a small narrow waterfall going sideways to avoid collisions with rocks. The natural formations were incredible, but we also got to stand feet, or sometimes even inches, away from authentic Mayan artifacts and skeletal remains. I have no words for this experience except awesome, epic, and earth-shattering.

After caving, we made our way to the Tropical Education Center where we will be staying the night. Nearby, we got a night tour of the Belize Zoo. This meant we got to see many incredible animals that we wouldn’t otherwise see up close. Each of us got to feed a tapir and hold a boa constrictor, which are actually particularly docile snakes in case you didn’t know. My personal favorite was the puma. It was undoubtedly the most gorgeous animal I have ever seen. Its huge eyes and narrow tapering facial structure seemed unreal.

The stars here are gorgeous, and as I was looking up at them, I noticed a moving one. It was not a shooting star but a firefly (a beetle!). Unfortunately, the firefly was too far away for identification, and I don’t have any fireflies on my taxon ID card.